I am working on a 1950's colonial with attic insulation consisting of 2"x6" joists filled with loose fill fiberglass. The fiberglass is covered by 1" x 6" decking with 1/4" between the boards. I am…Continue
"I consider my market anyone that spends more than $1500/yr on energy. I try to write different messages to get different segments to respond. I recently mailed 1000 flyers to home owners living in buildings with 2-4 units. I used "Can't…"
"Your last two statements, "The upfront cost of retrofits is a big barrier to comprehensive weatherization. Anything I can do to reduce the cost of installation will help," are compelling. You need a solution that makes sense, given the…"
"In order to do make a substantial difference in the air sealing of your home (this is possible!) you have got to be able to access the ceiling and do some caulking, foaming and rigid batting of air leaks. While I feel for you and all the work…"
"This seems to come up often, especially when customers want to keep the floor boards in place for storage. Best solution would be to remove floor boards, allowing for proper air sealing and achieve a minimum of R-38. Another option is to…"
"Just adding cellulose insulation will not improve your air barrier. I would recommend removing the floor boards, spot air-sealing with foam (and rigid if necessary) at bypasses, etc. and installing new cellulose or FG. I would not…"
"Best case is that you remove the boards and the existing insulation completely before doing air sealing--the loose FG has only marginal value, an inch of cellulose almost none. Ideally you are going to install 16-18" of insulation, so the…"
"Thanks for asking this question - I've actually been wondering the same thing for personal use. I hadn't thought of the every-third-board idea (seems a good thought), but was instead pondering how far sideways I could shoot sprayfoam (the…"
I am working on a 1950's colonial with attic insulation consisting of 2"x6" joists filled with loose fill fiberglass. The fiberglass is covered by 1" x 6" decking with 1/4" between the boards. I am recommending adding cellulose to improve the air barrier and insulate. My question is whether I can get away with not removing the old boards, or maybe removing every third one? How much area is needed to ensure moisture can dry to the outside? It should not get damp because of proper ventilation.The…See More
A presentation by Greg Labbé in April 2014 on retrofitting vintage home for energy efficiency. He talked about basic building science, brick houses, movement of heat energy and moisture in and out of the house, air barrier and water barrier, house…