John and Jane Doe's report is basically written. I have a template that I use that has been slowly built and improved over the past projects. It's a fine start but still requires a fair amount of custom writing, since each house has enough unique issues that need to be addressed. There's report software out there such as Recurve's, EAI, or BizEE, but none have that personal touch that comes from a written report. So here's some items from the report:
Target Infiltration: 0.25 ACHn (1962 cfm50, down from 3110 currently)
This one's controversial, or at least is a moving target. BPI recommendations are currently 0.35 ACHnatural. From there down to 0.7 of that, which is 0.245 ACHnatural, I must recommend that the homeowner installs mechanical ventilation in an amount that makes up the difference, ensuring 0.35 ACHnatural. Below that, below 0.25, I must require that the homeowner installs mechanical ventilation in the total amount of whatever 0.35 ACHnatural would be. In the Doe house, that would be 133cfm, running continuously. That's a significant additional heating load in the winter - heating that extra 133cfm of cold outside air - that a Heat Recovery Ventilator might be worth the investment. The problem is, HRVs are expensive, in the thousands. And since I believe in getting a house as tight as possible, my compromise is to aim for 0.25 ACHnatural and recommend that the homeowner install mechanical ventilation, but then also tell him my position on this issue and let him make up his own mind. Perhaps he's happy cracking a window if the house gets stuffy or having an intermittent time switch on a bath fan. But I've yet to find anyone that wants me to stop air sealing at 0.35. Anyway, that's my thinking and you're welcome to comment if you feel differently.
Insulation Improvement:Insulate attic access door in master closet with rigid 3.5” foam, cover a small attic kneewall in master closet with FSK as an air barrier, add loose fill attic fiberglass insulation to R-38, and insulate the floor to R19 and strap every 2’ to hold in place. The problem with this floor is that, being built in 1968, it has 4X6 floor joists on 4' centers and holding batt insulation up tight against that is a real challenge. Some may say it can't even be done and that spray foam is the only solution. But, with a snug crawlspace as this house has, that's impossible. I've considered stapling R4 FSK across the bottom as a support but plastic plumbing straps every 2' ends up doing an adequate but not perfect job. If anyone has method think works better, share it.
I'm meeting with Zero Energy Associates in 3 hours to get a bid on replacing the HVAC & DHW with direct vent units. Since those take their combustion air from the outside, we can seal up all the vents in the closet and no longer have to worry about combustion pollution entering the home.
I'm also proposing that the older recessed ceiling fixtures in the kitchen be replaced with ICAT LEDs, which I think is a great technology that outshines CFLs.
And last, the crawlspace can really use remediation. That is a sizable issue itself since there seems to be annual flooding and it's lower than the surrounding area outside the foundation. Ideally, we'd install a french drain around the outside, slope and channel the crawlspace towards one area where we'd install a sump pump, and then completely air seal over the soil with a 12 mil barrier glued and pinned to the stem wall. Being a costly process with relatively minor financial benefit, it can be a tough sell. But it will still be a recommendation in my report.