If you don't want to read the whole article, at least go to the bottom of the page and watch the screen cast. Take a look at some real effective garage door insulation. No, I didn't make this up.
By the very nature of American household storage needs and the dilemma of how much expense to put into a garage when the house cost too much already, the car garage has turned into a storage garage. So, does a garage used for storage need garage door insulation? If it's not a storage garage, to hold all things we need but don't use, perhaps it has turned into a family room or bedroom by way of extended families that join together because they want too or because they have to. When the kids all gather around in the garage to play video games, does the garage need garage door insulation?
Put on your thinking cap, how many people do you know that have a garage full of everything except a car? Drive down a residential street in the evening and count the number of cars parked in the driveway. This usually means that there is no room in the garage for the car. Yikes, this is sounding biblical.
Concerning garage door insulation, when should you go to the extra expense of installing an insulated garage door. Should you use a different garage door for a car and another for a video game?
As you might guess, garage doors come in all different degrees of insulation and R-value. Different materials and different thickness of materials. In most cases, if the door is metal it is 26 gauge metal. A more expensive metal door will have more than one layer of metal. Be careful when you purchase a metal door, the metal thickness ranges from 24 to 27 gauge. The 24 gauge can be too light and not hold up over time. Especially when the little women backs into it with the car.
Most doors are made of either wood, metal or fiberglass. You don't want a wood door because they have no R-value and because they don't last as long as a metal or fiberglass door. Nothing like a old wood door that is missing a few screws and refuses to raise up without a forklift. The bottom section rots off because of moisture damage and the top section loses it composure and hangs down like a hammock when the door is open. The best R-value I have seen on a wood garage door is R-4.
As far as fiberglass doors go, I've never seen one so I'm not going to act like I have. They are probably pretty good, have good R-value and cost a bit more. Listed R-value for a fiberglass door is R-14.
I am familiar with metal doors and would like to put in a good word for them. A metal door is strong, paint-able, has good R-value, and lasts a long time. They come in a wide variety of designs and adding windows is no trouble. A less expensive metal door may have a R-value of R-6. Top of the line door with two layers of steel and solid-core, polyurethane insulation sandwiched between the layers, R-16.
My recommendation for all garage door applications is a single layer of 26 gauge metal with a layer of solid-core, polyurethane insulation attached to the inside. This door is strong, but not as heavy as two layers of steel, with an R-value around 8. I believe this is the best door for both the garage that holds a car and the garage that holds a couch and a big screen T.V. It is solid, has reasonable insulation and sound deadening qualities and doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
Don't get too carried away with your garage door insulation, after all, a garage door has many possible gaps both around the edge and between the panels. If your turning the garage into a family room, build a wall just inside the doors and insulate it like the rest of your home.
I would like to share a picture with you in the form of a screen cast of the inside of a garage I encountered the other day. I call it, what's wrong with this picture?
Thanks for stopping by Detect Energy, hope you will come back soon, but I won't leave the light on for you...
If the screencast will not open for you, go to this link, garage door.