After writing last week's post: "High CO Reading, Now What?" it occurred to me that not as many people out there: technicians, raters, or auditors; are up to speed on the age old firing rate calculation. I hope this simple procedure is easily understood as you may find it useful if you are working with negative pressure gas valves, with Energy Star Homes, or just simply forgot your manometer at the shop. I know most inspectors and raters avoid attaching a manometer to measure gas pressure, particularly since some states even require a license to service gas appliances. By clocking the gas meter, one can tell if the British Thermal Units (Btu's) being consumed matches the input of the furnace, boiler, or even a water heater.
Based on the ACCA Quality Installation Specification, the basis for Energy Star Homes V3 Checklist, the calculated input btu/hr must be within 5% of the data plate. If a technician properly adjusted the manifold gas pressure and adjusted the airflow to ensure the temperature rise is within Manufacturer Specification, at worst the input will be within a couple of percent of the data plate.
A couple of tips if this is new for you:
Has anyone ran across a digital gas meter yet? I have not had the privilege of clocking one of these and would love to hear how you are doing so!
http://excessair.blogspot.com/2013/01/clocking-gas-meter.html
Comment
In your last bullet you mention "propane has approximately 2,500 Btu's per cubic foot". And that "approximately" has been my problem in the past. I have piped in gas meters for submetering LPG equipment before, but I have never been able to get any good information from the gas supplier as to what their energy content is. Any thoughts on how to get a better number than ~2,500?
Comment by Steve Waclo on January 15, 2013 at 11:32am
Comment by Christopher Morin on January 11, 2013 at 3:02pm
Comment by Jim Tenhundfeld on January 10, 2013 at 12:51pm I agree that clocking the gas meter may indicate the proper gas pressure, but a true combusion anlysis measuring the O2, CO & stack temperature and draft pressure will let you know if the the appliance is operating at its highest efficiency, and I don't mean the irrelavant efficiency numbers on the combustion analyser. Gas pressure in most residential water heaters cannot be adjusted so the pressure is what it is.
As far as CO testing, I was originally trained over 20 years ago to test from light off to shut down to see how the system operated during it entire cycle, especially for gas ovens. Testing one time at steady state does not tell me much. It is also much safer for the auditor to test during the entire time so he/she does not inhale combustion by products if the appliance is back drafting.
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