I wrote this in one of my groups and i didn't get a reply, maybe I didn't do it correctly. I recently did an audit on 2 homes in Hollywood , Ca built in the 50's which have pocket doors. Because of those doors I got readings of 9000cfm When I found the leak and walked thru it. It was like going thru a car wash when they where blowing the water off. I can blowdry my curly hair straight. lol
Now I need to fix the problem, the question how to go about it, from the crawl space ? or attic? or drywall? comments greatly appreciated
Thanks for listening.
Judi Lyall with SHE BUILDS "GREEN"
This is a cheap but easy way to seal pocket doors. If you have room and it does not interfear with the movement of the doors you can take plastic bags and stuff w/ fiberglas and push them into the cavities. This works well to block air especially on ext. walls where there is no existing insul. w/ no plans on adding any. The top can probably be sealed from attic ( one story? ). The bottom will must likley not be accessible. The major leakage will be coming from the top and through the sides.
Good advice, but on older homes you most likely will find plaster/lath as your wall surface. The cost and containment for removing this material may be prohibitive. If you use drywall to repair, you best make sure you are going to get a good match on thickness and texture.
The pocket door void is like any other open chase. (like a kitchen cabinet soffit) You need to stop the air flowing into and out of the area. Seal from the attic and the crawlspace as well as sealing any wall outlets along the same wall with foam gaskets.
It seems to me that Adam covered it well. Keep in mind the structure of a pocket door-the framing members are probably 1x material and the frame is surely very open. Applying foam can be tricky. Also, the hardware is probably suitable for the door-but the rollers are most likely plastic and depending on the weight of the door, may have a limited life. How does the door operate now? Does it still match the decor of the room(s)?If either of these questions are negative, it may be advisable to open up the wall and replace the door during renovations-and having it open, you can properly airseal the pocket with blueboard or drywall and spray foam for the joints.
A lesser modification would be to have a carpenter or woodworker provide a false jamb that matches the existing jambs, and cap the leading edge of the door with it. That would reduce leakage while the door is open, and you may need to provide a similar pair of pieces on the trailing faces of the door for when it is closed. This is not perfect, but it may reduce leakage enough for the situation-especially once the reachable areas above and below are sealed.
I have the same problem in a 1960 era house with 2 pocket doors that are still useable and appropriate. For a winter season fix, I use clear packing tape over the voids next to the open door. It is mostly invisible and stops all air flow, but really doesn't fix the problem of cold air penetrating the wall cavity.