Proper means to "plug" flue pipes after testing gas appliances.

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Permalink Reply by David Eggleton on November 30, 2011 at 9:59am

Here's a related discussion from months ago.

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Permalink Reply by Patrick Michaelyan on November 30, 2011 at 10:19am

Thanks David.

 

The issue for me still remains whether a quality plug for metal and high heat applications exists. The plug referenced in the discussion from a few months ago was a plastic plug, and therefore it would not hold up under flue gas temperatures that average 300 - 400 degrees.

 

The search goes on...

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Permalink Reply by Ed Minch on November 30, 2011 at 5:56pm

I know that we don't want to raise any questions from our customers about holes in their flues, but if there is a negative pressure inside the flue, do we HAVE to seal it?  As an example, a conventional gas water heater has 15-20 in2 of opening at the draft hood, and we are just a few inches away from there with our 5/16" diameter hole with less than an additional .1 in2 (one tenth of a square inch).  We use 181 tape and won't feel bad if it falls off - we have never gotten a complaint about this happening.  If you feel you must plug this hole, screw a short stainless slotted head machine screw into the hole, adjusting the drill size to make this easy.  YMMV.

Ed Minch

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Permalink Reply by Patrick Michaelyan on December 1, 2011 at 6:16am

Thanks Ed!

 

I hear where you're coming from, and I can't think of anything against the point(s) you have raised.

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Permalink Reply by Bruce Navin on December 21, 2011 at 11:36am

I use the snap in metal plugs. In a previous life, my work in service & installation management-in particular when it came to NFPA situations and the like-  taught me that if you make some sort of modification to a product, you must make a suitable good faith effort to keep the product within the standards intended by the manufacturer. In this situation, I interpret that to mean when drilling a hole in metal for a test, it should be plugged with metal. 

There may be some legal line of reasoning behind this as well. An inexpensive metal plug that is sized properly will leave the homeowner with the impression of the mark of a well-equipped professional and may also avoid a potential liability claim. I have met some homeowners who look for the smallest reason to stir up trouble.  

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Permalink Reply by Patrick Michaelyan on December 21, 2011 at 12:22pm

Thanks a lot Bruce. That's good perspective to have.

 

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Permalink Reply by Jeffrey Sauls on December 1, 2011 at 8:13am

Here's a link to the metal plugs I use for single wall metal flues. Recommended by my BPI training provider. They have worked well for me. Sorry, there's no picture of the product on their site.

Downside is that the price doubles with shipping charges when you order a single 20 pc bag. 

  a-386, 5/16" hole plug

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Products/Product.cfm?Group_ID=20005&P...

 

Hope that helps!

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Permalink Reply by Patrick Michaelyan on December 1, 2011 at 11:09am

Thanks a lot Jeffrey! I think you hit the nail on the head.

 

Patrick

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Permalink Reply by Jeffrey Sauls on December 1, 2011 at 11:22am

No problem.

Forgot to mention, but it helps to have a flat file with you to clean up the hole from the drilling when necessary.

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Permalink Reply by Glen Gallo on December 1, 2011 at 8:22am

Be careful with HVAC metal tape may are not rated for the heat a flue produces.

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Permalink Reply by Ed Ballard on December 1, 2011 at 2:36pm

I realize you are looking for a manufactured plug, but good old fashioned hi-temp. silicone always does the job. If Josh Lloyd sees this, perhaps he can chime in on pre made hi-temp. silicone plugs which are used by the program he works with.

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Permalink Reply by Ed Minch on December 1, 2011 at 4:55pm

Ed

Remember that ALL silicone is hi-temp.  If memory serves, the clear is 580 degrees for some amount of time, and the colored stuff is 20-30 degrees better - red and black being the best.  Just make sure to use pure silicone, not something like acrylic latex with only some silicone.

Ed Minch

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