I'm glad to see LED fixtures finally becoming mainstream in the local big box stores. Purpose built fixtures make more sense than trying to make LED's look and work like A19 lamps. Here's an example of the fixture I saw at the local Home Depot today:
I'll post more photos/findings once I get it hooked up.
Standby for the recalls...
The last picture shows the power lines running over the top of some LED. They do get hot, and may compromise the insulation. The also block the light. The blue movistor is ontop of the power connector. When it fails, there is a possibility of a short OR failure of the incoming power to board connector. This go around on the board -- someone didn't do a reliability and failure analysis.
The faults are certainly there as you describe. I'm not sure of the point for the MOV other than when it shorts out that it will take out the fuse preventing the board from burning up. The warranty is 5 years, hopefully I won't have to use it. They could have done a better job in PCB design as not to block the light from 2 of the LED's. The aluminum body makes a great heat-sink for the fixture, feels solid and stays cool.
I will say that the light is every bit as bright as a 60W incandescent/13W CFL, probably closer to a 75W incandescent/18W CFL. Dimming function is the best I've seen of the CFL/LED lights, very close to the performance of incandescent light bulbs. It's on an standard dimmer about 8 years old. The light is yellowish for a 4,000K lamp as seen in the pictures. Looks more like a 3,500k than a 4,100k. IMHO they should have 2,700k and 5,000K versions instead of only a 4,000K.
It's an early version of an LED fixture, I'm sure they will improve the design in future models. I also noticed a lot more ceiling fans choosing LED as the default fixture, especially in the $150+ models.
I've seen many MOV's fail but the fuse remains. They just heat up and fry the area around them. Or some cases they go quickly and vendors used a slower blowing fuse.
I suppose if they fail "open" that would be the case. At that point it's as if they weren't in the circuit at all. If anything on the board dies within 5yrs it's not like they are going to repair the board...
Yes, they will fail open - its the process in between that you have to worry about. Because the hot wire over lays active components and is in the area of the movistor - the hot could be compromised -- and the fuses then have no value -- they are after the connector. The heat sink is grounded. So as long as the light socket has a ground available - the worst case is that a failed light will trigger breaker (x fingers crossed). But in many houses (older) the lights may not have a ground. In which a failure would result in a hot receptacle.
Companies that design and sell electrical lighting products are supposed to look for these... they missed the obvious wire over light. That then begs the question of what else did they miss.
I have a Pharox digital light in front of me as a reminder of the changes in the LED industry. It's warranty was three years. I had one fail after one year and tried to get an exchange. I was able to contact the company - but in the end gave up because they were evasive. I had all the receipts AND containers!!!
I have a simple exercise tool (big rubber band for stretching) that claims to have a 1 year warranty. The process is simple - send the failed item, proof of purchase, original packaging and $7.50 to cover shipping and handling to the manufacturer on the east coast. (I live on west coast). They will replace it. Problem being -- I only paid $6.49 plus taxes at the local store...
In general unless an items fails within a few weeks and I can return to store and argue with them - I now see most warranties as not useable. The one wonderful exception that I have seen was Lowepro camera bag. The replaced a defective unit - only asking for serial number - they shipped new unit AND did not want the old one returned. I've since bought THREE more of their high end camera bags from them. I like their customer service.
What might be really interesting in the case of this light fixture is a letter to the company asking about it... see what their response might be...
But in many houses (older) the lights may not have a ground. In which a failure would result in a hot receptacle.
I don't quite understand this one. If the house has ungrounded wiring how does a short in the light cause a hot receptacle? A hot casing to the light fixture makes sense, but a receptacle at a different location?
The hot wire is running right over the active LED components, the movistor is right below were the molex connector for the incoming power. Movistors when they fail -- graciously give up their bodies for the good of man... its hard to say what will happen to the connector. If there is now a path from the hot - on the connector -- and the fuse on the board is long after the connector. Or if the hot wire decides to melt and insulation fails because of heat and proximity to the LED --- then without a ground on the electrical box for the fixture.. the heat sink portion of the light may be live.
If the house doesn't have a box - and the light is just mounted to the sheetrock then it is isolated -- but it isn't code either. Old houses often are not new code complaint. Houses built in 50's and early 60's may lack a ground to the light.
So the danger of shock is limited to the light itself and possibly the box in the event of a short?
Correct, but if it fails - and someone gets a ladder out to check on the light. Guess what the result might be when the touch the hot fixture and do not suspect it while on the ladder? Most of the fixture is plastic - so it shouldn't be a problem - and you are likely to see the damage when you pull the diffuser off.
I put one in today love the light but it just fits a small box not full size, so I had to off set to make it work with only one holder. this light does get hot