Hi,

After installing a Cree CR6 insert, does the canister still needs to be boxed out to keep insulation from covering the fixture?

Thanks

Paul

Views: 397

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Hi Paul.

Certainly an issue with all cans that could use a good answer.  Unfortunately, we are most often left to our own thinking for guidance.  Here are my thoughts.

If it is possible to re-install a bulb with a higher wattage, then the higher wattage rules must remain in place along with the wattage warning.  If the modification is basically permanent, (no Edison socket), then the new bulb potential wattage can be considered.  Remember, I'm not the authority, these are just thoughts and here is the last sentence on one of Cree's warranty statements:

"Any changes or modifications not expressly approved by the party responsible for compliance could void the user’s authority to operate the equipment."  This was from a PDF under Vantage Controls.com from this search: http://www.google.com/#q=Cree+CR6+insert&hl=en&prmd=imvns&a...

Exactly what that means I couldn't say, but there are two authorities I look to, local AHJ, and UL.  I didn't see any reference to UL, but if your packaging has such that would be good.  As for the local AHJ, they rule and should always be contacted when looking for approval not specifically granted elsewhere.

As for boxing any can light, it is often discussed, but I have never seen a universally approved approach that would be accepted by all authorities.  Lacking specific UL approval or someone else's signature on the dotted line to take the responsibility off of your shoulders, I would not box, but replace with a new AT/IC can.

Bud

i bought severa of the Cree CR6 bulbs and have put soem in my own home as substitute bulbs in AT/IC fixtures.  They have been in for at elast 5 years now.    before we put these in the fixtures had halogenbulbs in them.  we sprayed the fixtures with open cell foam from the attic when we first installed them in 1996.  so far no problems with the halogens or the LED's.  not scientific, but factual.

when i told my supplier this, he said Cree does not reccomend this, and will not warantee bulbs installed this way.   i have since been using TenMat domes on recessed lights, then spraying foam on the domes.  we had one failure where the fixture had an incondescent bulb with the adjustable 'eyeball' trim ring.  in that case airlfow is restricted by the trim ring and the bulbs overheated.  the fixtures shut off.  i replaced the incandescents with LED screw in bulbs and all is well. 

in my case, we are specifying creating an airspace in the attic around any recessed fixture, then using spray foam to seal the outer surface of that space. 

Hi Pat, although my post above kind of says not to box, I also compare boxing to installing a can in a first floor ceiling or in a drop area over a kitchen sink.  In those cases, the can is still enclosed, but in a cavity that provides more area to dissipate the heat.  Since I have seen no restrictions for cans in a joist cavity, I would assume a similar generous space with a box should be acceptable.  At least this is the argument I use when talking to local code officials, if one is ok why not the other.

Bud

Sorry about all the typo's.  not my forte`  check with TenMat on this, but those covers are made for this application.  they are made of rock wool, so they will not burn and are good protection for the foam.  they are also easily installed. 

 

 

Typo's are certainly not an issue in these days.

The key to any cover is having had UL test that specific light with that cover or possibly having UL approve that cover for any and all lights, which I don't think they would do.  One cover I looked at had a list of several cans they had tested it with and it was thus approved for those and only those cans.  In any event, I haven't heard of this being an issue, but would not want to be the last one in line when they were looking to blame someone.

Bud

RSS

Home Energy Pros

Home Energy Pros was founded by the developers of Home Energy Saver Pro (sponsored by the U.S. Department of Energy,) and brought to you in partnership with Home Energy magazine.

Latest Activity

Bob Blanchette replied to w d's discussion Managing Solar Energy
"Look into passive solar heating. The south windows have enough overhang that the windows are shaded…"
12 hours ago
Steve Waclo commented on Kaplan Clean Tech's blog post The Difference Between Home Inspection and Energy Auditing [Infographic]
"Excellent graphic summary but I don't agree Home Inspectors also check energy use. I believe…"
yesterday
Steve Waclo replied to Linda Wigington's discussion Low-cost electricity monitoring: Accuracy & Applications in the group 1000 Home Challenge
""The problem with plug in energy testers is they miss most of a typical homes energy use. 240v…"
yesterday
w d posted a discussion

Managing Solar Energy

What's the state of the art on managing solar energy (esp. at the home)?There's surely no…See More
yesterday
Bud Poll posted a discussion

Inconsistant Local Authotity

It becomes frustrating to give people modern advice and then have to backtrack and tell them to do…See More
yesterday
Morgan Hunter replied to Isaiah Borel's discussion Blown Cellulose VS Blown Fiberglass in the Attic
"Up here In Canada Fibreglass wins hands down for heat loss! Check back 5, 10 & 20 years later…"
yesterday
Bob Blanchette replied to Linda Wigington's discussion Low-cost electricity monitoring: Accuracy & Applications in the group 1000 Home Challenge
"The problem with plug in energy testers is they miss most of a typical homes energy use. 240v…"
Saturday
Bob Blanchette joined David Eggleton's group
Thumbnail

1000 Home Challenge

Linda Wigington distinguished between deep retrofits & deep energy reductions, thus expanding…See More
Saturday

© 2014   Created by Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory.

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service