Greetings everyone! 

   I was hoping I could get some feedback with a building I am working on. The existing concrete was a 3 inch "homeowner special", so the plan is to set 2 inches of rigid foam, tubing for radiant heat, and four inches of new pour concrete.

1.) Do I need anything between the insulation and the existing concrete?

2.) The radiant pipes have ties to attach to the iron rods for the concrete, so I can only imagine that the metal goes first, then the radiant...

3.) How do I protect the rigid foam from damage from walking on it to do the other steps?

4.) Does the rigid foam boards needs to be taped between each other and to the end of the block?

This is a very exciting project and your feedback is greatly appreciated, 

    Luis

Tags: board, concrete, floor, foam, heat, installation, insulation, radiant

Views: 152

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

What is the issues with the "homeowner special" concrete - wavy, falling apart, or... That can easily change some answers depending on the severity 

#1 - generally not needed, though sometimes you might need a floor leveler, maybe even a crack/moisture isolation membrane

#2 - Personally I like having the radiant around the halfway mark in the slab with the metal though many simply attach it directly to the foam like is shown here http://blog.sls-construction.com/2012/common-sense-building-radiant...

#3 - use the proper foam & it can handle it - should be a high density closed cell foam

#4 - that is a very good idea

One last tip - make sure you have the pex lines pressurized while you are doing this and check them as you go - last thing you want to do is find out you have a leak after the concrete is set, while messy it is easier to fix now then later

Not sure if this would have any bearing on your project at all. Thought I would mention it though.
When we apply our coating on new concrete walls or new stucco, we always have to test the Ph level first. It must be no higher than 4, we prefer 3 or below. With concrete or stuccvo that is 5-yearsold or older, rarely an issue. Less than 5, many times an issue. It causes major bonding problems.
Again, not sure if a high Ph level concrete would cause issues with your foam or not. Possibly???
Some paint companies make a primer for high Ph surfaces. Might be a good thing to look into. Will a high Ph level concrete eat the foam??? I dont know, thats why I'm bringing it up.

RSS

Home Energy Pros

Home Energy Pros was founded by the developers of Home Energy Saver Pro (sponsored by the U.S. Department of Energy,) and brought to you in partnership with Home Energy magazine.

Latest Activity

Bud Poll replied to richard gaughan's discussion Advice for heating a 3-story Vermont home built in 1900?
"Hi Richard, Being a science writer and this being rental units, here is a moral dilemma you…"
1 hour ago
richard gaughan posted a discussion

Advice for heating a 3-story Vermont home built in 1900?

I'm a science writer, as opposed to an energy professional, and I joined this group to try to keep…See More
5 hours ago
Christopher Talarico posted a discussion

Heating with Tankless Water Heater & Hydronic Air Handler vs. Gas Furnace

Hi,I've looked around online and haven't found a lot of good information on home heating with…See More
15 hours ago
Profile IconSara Sabol, Christopher Talarico and Aaren Stewart joined Home Energy Pros
17 hours ago
Hal Skinner replied to Andy Gostisha's discussion Disguising Ductless Heat Pump Units
"Hi Andy. The bare metal units on a roof stick out like a sore thumb .  Coating them with our…"
18 hours ago
Paul Morin replied to Stephen Standley's discussion Which reading is more reliable on a Minneapolis Duct Blaster?
"Sorry for chiming in so late.  Sean’s comment early on in the discussion was the closest…"
21 hours ago
jerry gentile posted a status
"hello- anyone challenge the written QCI exam?"
yesterday
Kevin Jordan posted photos
yesterday

© 2014   Created by Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory.

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service